Byron Bay | August 11, 2003 | Travel Day 64
Yesterday I took a trip to Byron Bay, a beach town about 1.5 hours
south of the Gold Coast. Byron used to be known as Hippie Central,
but has grown exponentially as a backpackers paradise over the last
five years – the hippies have since retreated to the kinder
countryside. It still retains a “happy-go-lucky” personality however,
littered with surf shops, organic food cafes, massage parlors and
droves of wetsuit-clad, long-haired boys (men?) running around
barefoot with their boards.
I got there and immediately understood why so many backpackers got
trapped there, extending their stays one, two, three weeks longer than
planned. I was inundated by people handing out fliers advertising
surfing packages, free internet deals, cheap hostel accommodation, and
free drinks at local watering holes. Felt sad that I wasn’t staying
longer than a day!
I headed down to the beach. Beaches in Australia – take your pick of
which coast, because every single one I’ve ever been to has been
stunning: Cottesloe Beach around Perth in Western Australia, Bells
Beach in Victoria, Mission Beach in Queensland, Surfers Paradise in
Queensland, and now Byron Bay in New South Wales – are all fantastic.
The sand stretches on forever and the water is actually the color it
is in cartoons: blue-green. The waves are spectacular. Even on a
cloudy day it was still mesmerizing.
About fifteen minutes later, in search of the famous Cape Byron
lighthouse, I found myself pretty much lost in the midst of a private
campsite. How the hell did I get here? I wondered. I knew I was
heading in the right direction – east – but I didn’t know how to climb
through the forest to get to the lighthouse. I saw a guy with curly
dark blond hair sitting alone under a cooking shelter.
“Excuse me, do you know how to get to the lighthouse?”
He looked startled, as if awoken from a dream. “Yeah, yeah I do...but
if you wait five minutes, I was just thinking about having a wander
down there by myself, so we can go together if you’d like.” His
Australian drawl was strong.
It was awkward as we made our way down to the beach, but soon we were
chatting away like old friends. Jack Burns, my new companion, was
camping around Byron for a few months, living out of a tent at night
and surfing through the day. He was originally from a small town just
outside Newcastle. When he felt like it, he worked as a tree-planter,
hitch-hiking from town to town. “Homeless” might be the term you’d
use in the United States, but in Australia, he was a free spirit who
radiated the term “No Worries.” It was energizing just to be around
him – he was full of ideas – though I had a sneaking suspicion that
many of his brilliant plans had yet to materialize.
A quick word on the Australian welfare system, also called “the dole.”
With such a small population and such high taxes, the Australian
government manages to really TAKE CARE of its citizens. Good and bad
points to this. I saw a tv news special one night about how a large
number of minimum wage jobs slots were all empty because, as one man
put it, “No one can beat the government.” Apparently, the bi-monthly
payment given out by the government to the jobless actually works out
better in the end than having to WORK a minimum-wage job everyday.
“Hey, I’m doing fine and I’d rather have no stress in my life than be
hassled by a boss,” said one happy-go-lucky man who depended on the
dole and nothing else to sustain him. All you had to do was look
around Byron Bay and see that many other people had the same attitude!
So I guess it’s good to know that the government has your back –
UNLIKE the USA – but it’s NOT good to know that people are abusing
this luxury.
We walked up endless steps to Captain Cook Lookout and spotted some
whales swimming along the coast. Everything was flat and the view
from the lookout was panoramic and overwhelming. We climbed up even
to Headland Lookout, the “Most Easterly Point in Australia.” The
lighthouse was up just a little bit further. At the lighthouse, we
sat down on a grassy patch and had two cups of coffee, watching a pair
of handgliders swing through the air. Jack asked if he could write in
my journal. He took about 20 minutes. When I got home that night, I
found that he had written a poem about me.
“Do you want to climb down this mountain off the beaten path?”
“Um, sure.”
Not sure if you could call the journey we made to be off the “beaten
path” because THERE WAS NO BEATEN PATH!!! I scaled the side of this
treacherous slope covered in trees and plants sometimes reaching
waist-high, all while thinking that I was going to plunge to my death.
I think I fell about three times. Adrenaline shot through my
arteries and veins. When we finally reached sea-level however, I felt
exhilarated. I wanted to do it again!
Jack and I walked along the beach in the cloudy, misty late-afternoon
light and then made our way back to our original starting point –
about an hour away – and watched the sun set. Off in the distance,
you could see a group of surfers resting in the calm waters, waiting
to catch a “good wave.” They’d been there for a long time. Over by
the rocks where we were sitting, though, smaller waves were constantly
crashing ashore.
“If it was me, I’d be out here, riding all the little ones,” said Jack.
“Kind of a metaphor for life.” Did I say that out loud? But it was
true. My mind was racing to make sense of my statement. So many
people spend their lives saving, waiting, putting off things for
“later.” Everyone is waiting for the “time to be right” and for debts
to be paid off and for obstacles to be out of the way. But when is
the time ever truly “right”? And when do you start LIVING and stop
waiting for “real life” to begin? I don’t believe in waiting forever.
I’d rather ride the little waves and enjoy the present. I mean, yes,
I’ll prepare for the future and keep my eye on the peripheral horizon
so that I don’t miss that giant squall, but one of the reasons I take
chances, including traveling, is because you can really only have an
effect on the present. Not the past. Maybe the future. But your
best bet is now.
“What do you mean?” Jack looked a bit confused.
I explained to him what I thought and told him finally, “Who knows if
the future will REALLY be better? Will I be satisfied and happy when
I have my family, the perfect job, that great house on the water with
a boat in my backyard?” I questioned, citing all the things I’ve ever
said my “dream” future would hold. “It’s good to dream, but there's a
lot of truth in something that I've heard before: ‘HAPPINESS IS A
JOURNEY, NOT A DESTINATION.”
Jack nodded and smiled in agreement, spitting out the typical Aussie
affirmation: “Good on ya!” We walked to the bus station quietly and I
said goodbye to my new friend, happy that I had shared beautiful
scenery, peaceful walks, and good conversation with such a kind
stranger.
~Hope